Skip to main content

Very Rich Hours in Chantilly

It is a once-in-a-lifetime experience: the chance to see one of the greatest -- and most fragile -- works of European art before your very eyes. The illustrated manuscript known as the  Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry contains images that have shaped our view of the late Middle Ages, but it's normally kept under lock and key at the Château de Chantilly, north of Paris. It's only been exhibited twice in the past century. Now newly restored, the glowing pages of  Les Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry are on show to the public for just a few months. "Approche, approche," the Duke of Berry's usher tells the visitors to the great man's table for the feast that will mark the start of the New Year. It's also your invitation to examine closely the illustration for January, one of the 12 months from the calendar in this Book of Hours -- a collection of prayers and other religious texts -- that form the centrepiece of this exhibition in Chantilly.  It's su...

Subscribe to updates

A Walk on the Dark Side

Let us take you by the hand and lead you through the streets of Ostend, in the company of an insomniac artist with stomach ulcers. Things appear odd at night, eerie lights down deserted streets and along the promenade, when everyone else in the Queen of Belgian seaside resorts has gone to bed.

Welcome to the world of Léon Spilliaert at the Royal Academy in London, the latest in the RA's spate of exhibitions featuring European artists you've possibly barely heard of but who are rather big names in their home countries.

Spilliaert was born in Ostend in 1881, and though he moved away to Bruges to study and later to Brussels and Paris, it's his home town that seems to have inspired his most intriguing pictures. He worked mostly using a wash of Indian ink, with occasional pastel and coloured pencil, to produce often haunting, otherworldly images.
Here in Dyke at Night, Reflected Lights, the town is asleep, apart of course from the solitary wandering artist. There's a broken blanket of dark cloud above the North Sea, with the beams off a few pinpoints of light suggesting a squall of rain has just swept Ostend.

And the same motifs recur in this view of Hofstraat, a road leading down to the harbour. That menacing cloud, and a solitary light reflected down the centre of the street.
Both these pictures date from 1908, during a period when Spilliaert had returned to live with his parents. He produced numerous self-portraits in his glass-roofed studio, looking a haunted figure with sunken eyes and a shock of blond hair. He does have something of the night about him, doesn't he?
The same props are seen again and again -- a bentwood chair, the coathooks on the wall, a calendar showing the date. November 5 may have been a particularly bad day for the artist in terms of health; he looks far older than his 27 years.
A series of paintings Spilliaert made of his Bedroom also suggest his discomfort, his inability to get any rest. The depict heavy wooden furniture, a clinical-looking bedstead and white sheets, conveying a sense of a room without any expression of personality.

There are elements of Edvard Munch in Spilliaert's work, elements too perhaps of Félix Vallotton, the Swiss artist whose paintings we saw in these same galleries at the RA last year. There's less narrative than with Vallotton, though. Individuals are rarely seen close up in any detail.

Here's one of those pictures that has a particularly Munch-like feel to it, A Gust of Wind. A girl holds on tight to a railing on the promenade, her hair and skirt blown aside in the sudden flurry. Her face is contorted not so much in a scream of anxiety as in a shriek of surprise.
Spilliaert used a rather more elaborate technique a few years later in Woman at the Shoreline, delineating areas of sand, water and foam and the form of the woman's dress and hat in a remarkably abstracted way.
He was clearly drawn to odd views, surprising angles. The Royal Galleries at Ostend disappear in a row of columns along the beachfront, while elsewhere a man Returning from a Swim is glimpsed as if from a balloon above the brown sand.
We really enjoyed about half this exhibition, but we found Spilliaert's book illustrations and his later works, which make up much of the other half, far less enticing. Spilliaert found happiness in his mid-30s with a local woman when he remained in Ostend during the German occupation in World War I, and they moved to Brussels. He seems to have created his most interesting work in his home town, but it's a very different Ostend -- a darker place -- from the one portrayed by its other famous son, James Ensor -- all gaudy skeletons and carnival-goers -- in another RA show a couple of years ago.

Practicalities

Léon Spilliaert runs until May 25 at the Royal Academy on Piccadilly in central London. It's open daily from 1000 to 1800, with lates on Fridays until 2200. Full-price tickets are £14, or £12 without a Gift Aid donation. Online booking is available here. The RA is a few minutes' walk from Green Park and Piccadilly Circus Tube stations.

From London, the show will move on to the Musée D'Orsay in Paris from June 15 to September 13.

Images

Léon Spilliaert, Dyke at Night, Reflected Lights, 1908, Musée D'Orsay, Paris. Photo: © Musée d'Orsay, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Patrice Schmidt
Léon Spilliaert, Hofstraat, Ostend, 1908, Private collection, courtesy of Francis Maere Fine Arts, Ghent
Léon Spilliaert, Self-Portrait, 1907, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Image: © 2019 The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Art Resource/Scala, Florence
Léon Spilliaert, Self-Portrait, 5 November, 1908, Private collection
Léon Spilliaert, A Gust of Wind, 1904, Mu.ZEE, Ostend. © www.lukasweb.be -- Art in Flanders vzw. Photo: Hugo Maertens
Léon Spilliaert, Woman at the Shoreline, 1910, Private collection. Photo: © Cedric Verhelst
Léon Spilliaert, Returning from a Swim, 1907, Private collection

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

What's On in 2025

What will be the exhibition highlights of 2025 around Britain and Europe? At the end of the year, Tate Britain will be marking 250 years since the birth of JMW Turner and John Constable with a potential blockbuster. Meanwhile, the Swiss are  making a big thing  of the 100th anniversary of the death of Félix Vallotton  (a real favourite of ours). Among women artists in the spotlight will be Anna Ancher, Ithell Colquhoun, Artemisia Gentileschi and Suzanne Valadon. Here's a selection of what's coming up, in more or less chronological order; as ever, we make no claim to comprehensiveness, and our choice very much reflects our personal taste. And in our search for the most interesting shows, we're visiting Ascona, Baden-Baden, Chemnitz and Winterthur, among other places.  January  We start off in Paris, at the Pompidou Centre; the 1970s inside-out building is showing its age and it'll be shut in the summer for a renovation programme scheduled to last until 2030. Bef...

Carrington: You've Met Leonora, Now Discover Dora

Carrington: She only wanted to be known by her surname, unwittingly posing a conundrum for art historians, curators and the wider world a century later.  Because it's another somewhat later Carrington, the long-lived Surrealist and totally unrelated, who's recently become Britain's most expensive woman artist. But today we're at Pallant House Gallery in Chichester to see an exhibition not about Leonora but about Dora Carrington. She hated that name Dora -- so Victorian -- but with Leonora so much in the limelight (and the subject of a  recent show at Newlands House in Petworth, just a few miles up the road), the curators at the Pallant didn't have much option, so they've had to call their retrospective  Dora Carrington: Beyond Bloomsbury .  Leonora was a bit of a rebel, as we found out in Petworth. Dora too. But we ought to respect her wish. Carrington, then, has been a bit neglected recently; this is the first show of her works in three decades. And while ther...

The Highs and Lows of the Nahmad Collection

It's widely referred to as the world's most valuable private art collection : the one assembled over decades by the Nahmad brothers, dealers Ezra and David . Worth an estimated $3 billion or more, it's said to include hundreds of Picassos. Some 60 works from it are now on display at the Musée des impressionnismes in Giverny as  The Nahmad Collection: From Monet to Picasso . Intended, apparently, to demonstrate how art developed from the early 19th century through Impressionism and on to the start of the modern era, towards the liberation of colour and form, this is an exhibition that ends up coming across as somewhat incoherent. We're not really told much about the Nahmads or their collecting choices -- and as you search the Internet, things become slightly mysterious: Is Ezra alive or dead? The art, presumably, is supposed to speak for itself, but it's a rather eclectic, if not confusing, selection; some of the works are fantastic, some are distinctly ho-hum.  Let...